Taking it easy in Tioman

By MICHAEL D'OLIVEIRO

For those on a typical diving budget, the time-cramped weekend break is all too often like this: Rise from bed to the sound of clanging bells, a rushed breakfast and a mad scramble for fishing boats with other divers.

That's not mentioning the time spent getting to the island. Finding a beach resort that gives divers more time usually means more money.

I pondered this while zipping up my wet suit and gearing up at Pulau Tioman. I had time to feel lazy and wade slowly to a waiting boat. I had got off plane 15 minutes earlier after an early morning flight that lasted half and hour.

Good diving is in close proximity here, too. No 50 minute boat rides or cramped seating that would be more fitting of the Allied landings at Normandy Beach. Here, Tioman's famous satellite island of Renggis is only a minute away.

This was not the first time I was diving at Renggis, which is known for its excellent coral cover. Renggis is interesting enough to warrant a few visits. Descending off the east coast of this isle, we found maximum visibility was only about 10m. It being near the end of the season, this was to be expected.

Once we found ourselves above a carpet of staghorn corals, it was a procession of reef fish of all kinds.

Large parrotfish were seen regularly. We even came across a green turtle, relaxing amongst the corals and annoyed that we had found it. Porcupine fish mingled with butter-fly fish. Despite being nearly invisible with its camouflage, a large cuttlefish got our attention. A common sight here, the fully-grown specimen flashed several colours before making its escape.

Renggis definitely has its fair share of these cephalopods.

We decided to try a bit of snorkelling off the shore too. It's worth doing that here - for beginners, that is. Patchy coral cover and small reef fish were about all there were to see. The real highlight is that the beach here is better than most around Tioman and offers plenty of space for privacy.

The afternoons were a little lazy; we made good use of Berjaya's spacious dive centre. Besides room to relax in there, it also had a ping-pong table with the typical resort-style service we were given: friendly and quick.

Maybe the small numbers here help.

The Dive Centre was only a two minute bicycle ride from our beach accommodation. We didn't bother with the taxi shuttles but used the free bicycles provided by the resort. Cutely enough, there was even a tandem bicycle for couples to use.

Rustic roominess

Berjaya's resort is really vast. We made sure to book the chalets by the beach, which adopted the traditional East Coast Malay architecture. The interiors were a little dated but the rustic charm was undeniable.

Berjaya's strategic location on Pulau Tioman was half the reason why the stay was so enjoyable. With convenient access to everything we needed, it made for an ideal stay for those who want fun scuba diving and an actual holiday at the same time.

Berjaya also promotes its resort for those seeking to obtain their PADI diving licence. My only concern is that the PADI Open Water dive course offered is slightly cramped at five-days/ four nights, seeing as one has to abstain from flying on the final day. A boat ride is an option, but it's a time hassle for those rushing back to work.

I'd recommend it more as a place to do your post-course dives. The sheltered bay is ideal for it, and the marine life is abundant enough to feast your eyes on. When time is a premium on a holiday, you get more out of it flying to Tioman.
Once in a while, this is how diving should be done.

FYI

• The Open Water Course for divers in a 5D/ 4N package is RM 1,498 net per person, which includes breakfast, four open-water dives, PADI certification fees, original manual and full equipment rental.
  

• For non-divers, the 3D/ 2N Value Package starts from RM 468 net person and includes breakfast, one buffet dinner, BBQ dinner and a snorkelling trip with gear included. Package with airfare and airport transfer increases to RM 888 net per person. Room is on a twin-sharing basis. The offer is valid till June 30.

For enquiries, contact the Berjaya Hotels & Resorts at (03) 2141 0088, (03) 2145 4107, e-mail: bhr@berjaya.com.my or visit www.berjayahotels-resorts.com